Is 100 Degrees Too Hot For A Leopard Gecko: Heating Myths!

Leopard geckos are fascinating reptiles, admired for their calm nature and ease of care, but maintaining their environment at the right temperature is crucial. 

Yes, 100 degrees is too hot for a leopard gecko’s preferred temperature range. Ideal warm hide temperatures stay around 88–92°F, with a cool side near 70–77°F, keeping them safe from overheating and stress.

In this guide, we’ll explore the safe temperatures, what’s considered too hot, and how to maintain the perfect balance so your leopard gecko can thrive in its enclosure.

One reason you’ll see arguments online is that people mix up air temperature and surface temperature:

• Warm side air temp (where your gecko rests inside the warm hide): usually about 88–92°F. That’s the temperature your gecko absorbs for digestion and day-to-day comfort.
• Basking surface temp (the top of a flat stone under a lamp): some advanced guides allow ~94–97°F, occasionally nudging higher, but still below or around 100°F—and only as a small “hot spot” with a safe gradient.
• Cool side: typically 70–77°F, allowing the animal to dissipate heat quickly when needed.

When people say “100°F is fine,” they often mean a tiny patch of heated stone that momentarily reads ~98–100°F on a temp gun. That is not the same as running your warm hide or the entire warm end at 100°F.

There’s broad agreement from veterinary and husbandry references on the ranges (even if individual numbers vary):

• PetMD (vet-reviewed): Warm end 80–90°F, cool end 75–80°F.
• VCA Animal Hospitals: Environmental cage temperature in the mid-80s°F; nights to ~70°F; avoid hot rocks.
• ReptiFiles (research-driven husbandry): Basking surface 94–97°F, warm hide 90–92°F, cool end 70–77°F; night drops are healthy.
• RSPCA (UK): Use a thermostat; guard heat sources; check with digital and IR thermometers. Their example basking zone target is 28–30°C (82–86°F) with a cooler end of 24–26°C—conservative, but underscores that 100°F air is excessive.

Taken together, these points suggest a simple rule of thumb: keep the warm hide around 90°F, allow a small hot surface in the mid-90s, and ensure the cool side is truly cool. That’s a safe recipe for digestion and thermoregulation, which helps avoid heat stress.

Leopard geckos are ectotherms. They depend on external heat to power digestion and metabolism, but their internal systems work best within a preferred optimal temperature zone (POTZ).

Exceeding that zone pushes them toward heat stress, dehydration, and burns—especially if the heat is ambient rather than a tiny, optional hotspot. Veterinary manuals stress staying inside the species POTZ and note that basking temps should only be a bit warmer than the air gradient—not drastically hotter.

Run a warm hide at 100°F, and you’re forcing the animal to endure that heat inside a confined space where it’s supposed to rest and digest—exactly the wrong place to max out the thermometer.

Watch for these red flags—especially if a probe or gun shows temps creeping up:

• Rapid or open-mouth breathing, exaggerated throat/chest movement.
• Lethargy, weakness, unresponsiveness, staying glued to the cool side.
• Pacing or frantic escape behavior (trying to get away from the heat). (Behavioral stress escalates with thermal stress; general husbandry guidance notes this as a warning.)

Severe heat stress in reptiles progresses from hyperactivity to apathy, respiratory distress, and can be fatal. Don’t wait for dramatic symptoms—fix the environment first.

Many “my tank is fine” claims fall apart under proper measurement. Use two tools:

1. Digital probe thermometers for air temperatures at gecko level—one probe in the warm hide, another on the cool side.
2. An infrared temperature gun for surface temperatures on the basking stone or tile.

Measuring at the exact spot where your gecko sits (at the bottom of the enclosure and basking site) gives you actionable numbers. If you only stick a thermometer to the glass, you’ll miss dangerous hot spots.

A leopard gecko thrives when it can choose its temperature. Build a clear gradient:

• Warm hide (air): aim for ~90–92°F.
• Basking surface: ~94–97°F max for most setups—hotter isn’t better.
• Middle: ambient transition zone.
• Cool side: ~70–77°F.
• Night: a drop is not only okay, it’s healthy; low-70s°F is routine, and reputable guides note they can tolerate even cooler short nightly drops.

If your room runs cold in winter, consider using a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or a deep heat projector on a thermostat to maintain a safe night baseline—avoid colored “night bulbs,” which can disrupt normal rhythms.

Best practice:

• Overhead halogen or incandescent basking for daytime heat, which warms surfaces naturally (like sun on rocks). Control with a dimming thermostat or a reliable dimmer, and verify with a probe and temp gun.
• Under-tank heat mats (UTH) can help keep the warm hide in range—but they must be regulated by a thermostat, with the probe properly placed, and covered by substrate to prevent direct contact with the heat.

Avoid:

• Hot rocks/heat stones. They create unpredictable hot spots and are associated with burns. Multiple veterinary sources advise against them.
• Unregulated heat sources of any kind. A thermostat isn’t optional; it’s basic safety gear.

You will find a few care sheets that recommend a basking spot of 95–100°F. Read the fine print:

• They’re usually referring to a small, discrete surface hotspot, not the entire warm end or a closed warm hide.
• Even then, 100°F is a ceiling, not a target—and only makes sense if your cool side is genuinely cool and the gecko is choosing brief, voluntary stops at that surface.

The safer, widely supported approach is to keep your warm hide ~90–92°F, and if you provide a basking stone, let it peak in the mid-90s. That gets you the digestive and metabolic benefits without pushing into the danger zone.

If your numbers are too hot (e.g., warm hide or warm side at/near 100°F):

• Adjust the basking bulb up or down; if using a mat, lower the thermostat set point.
• Increase the distance between the bulb and basking surface, and add/adjust a guard if needed.
• Improve ventilation and confirm probe placement (probes slipping toward the heat source can cause the thermostat to under-regulate).
• Re-check with the probe and temperature gun at the gecko level and on the basking stone.
• If your gecko shows signs of heat stress (lethargy, open-mouth breathing, unable to cool down), cool the enclosure promptly by shutting off the lights/heat, and contact an exotic vet. Severe reptile heat stress is an emergency.

If your numbers are too cold:

• Use a higher-wattage bulb or switch to a halogen for stronger, more sun-like heat.
• Add a CHE/DHP to a thermostat to raise ambient temperatures without blasting the light.
• Ensure your room temperature doesn’t drop below the enclosure’s gradient.
• Night drops are fine, but aim to keep the animal within its POTZ overall.

If behavior seems “off” even when temps look right:

• Confirm you’re measuring the correct spot (inside the warm hide, the surface of the stone, or the cool side substrate). Many problems stem from measuring in the wrong place.
• Add more hides—one on the warm end, one on the cool end—so your gecko can thermoregulate without feeling exposed.
• Revisit humidity: day humidity ~30–40%, plus a humid hide ~70–80% for shedding.

If the warm side of your leopard gecko’s tank exceeds 92°F, it can become unsafe. Too much heat causes them stress and discomfort. Always use a thermostat and thermometer to check temperatures. Providing a proper gradient with both warm and cool sides helps your gecko stay healthy.

Yes, if your leopard gecko’s warm hide or air temperature reaches 100°F, it’s too hot. Geckos require a warm side of around 90°F, not higher than this. A surface basking spot can be a little hotter, but they must have a cooler area nearby to escape the heat safely.

When a leopard gecko gets too hot, it can become stressed, weak, and dehydrated. You may notice heavy breathing, trying to escape the heat, or staying only on the cool side. If overheating persists, it can lead to heatstroke, a dangerous condition that requires immediate attention.

A leopard gecko tank should have a warm side at about 88–92°F, with a basking spot in the mid-90s. The cool side should stay around 70–77°F. At night, the temperature can drop safely into the low 70s, giving your gecko a natural day-night cycle.

Use fans, frozen water bottles near the tank, cool hides, and reduce light intensity to lower the enclosure temperature safely.

Most reptiles require a warm side with temperatures ranging from 85–95°F and a cooler side with temperatures near 70–80°F for proper thermoregulation and health.

Yes, a 100-watt bulb is often too strong. It can overheat tanks quickly; choose wattage based on tank size.

Yes, 90°F is safe for the warm side or hide. Ensure the cool side remains lower to maintain a healthy temperature balance.

Temperatures above 100°F are too hot for most lizards. Excessive heat can cause stress, dehydration, and even heatstroke, which can be life-threatening.

Signs include rapid breathing, staying only on the cool side, lethargy, attempting to escape, or open-mouth breathing due to stress.

Yes, turn it off. Leopard geckos require nighttime cooling, but maintain a safe nighttime temperature with a thermostat-controlled ceramic heater.

Leopard geckos tolerate gentle handling but don’t exactly “like” it. Regular, calm handling builds trust and helps them feel safe.

With proper care, leopard geckos often live 10–20 years in captivity, sometimes even longer, making them long-term, rewarding pets.

Signs include sleeping more, eating less, slower movements, and spending longer hiding. Healthy brumation looks different from sickness or stress.

In conclusion, 100°F is too hot for a leopard gecko’s warm side. These reptiles thrive best with a temperature gradient—warm hide around 88–92°F, a basking surface in the mid-90s, and a cool side near 70–77°F. Monitoring with proper thermometers, using thermostats, and ensuring safe heating sources protect your gecko from stress, overheating, and health risks, keeping them happy and thriving.